Frenchman Rayann had originally planned to visit Utsjoki only for photography trips, but then everything changed – "Life here is easier, more relaxed, and more pleasant than anywhere else."

Photo by Sonja Sistonen

Rayann Elzein is a 40-year-old entrepreneur who has settled in Utsjoki from the Netherlands. His roots are in Germany, his country of birth, but his family moved to France when Rayann was 6 years old. He attended school and studied in France and moved to the Netherlands to work immediately after completing his university studies.

Rayann spent a total of 17 years in the Netherlands before moving to Utsjoki in 2020. But what on earth brought him to Utsjoki in the first place?

”During my time in the Netherlands, I spent a couple of years in St. Petersburg, Russia, where I worked for the same Dutch company that I worked for in the Netherlands. From St. Petersburg, I first visited Finland in 2011. At that time, I wanted to see two things in Finland: the Northern Lights and Nightwish’s concert,” Rayann laughs.

”I first went to the concert in Helsinki and then flew to Inari to see the Northern Lights! I stayed in Inari for four nights. The nights were even as cold as -25 degrees, which was the coldest I had ever experienced. I was lucky to see really beautiful Northern Lights on two nights!”

After his first trip to the north, Rayann started visiting Inari and Utsjoki annually in the early part of the year. Soon, he also wanted to see the midnight sun and traveled to the north in the summers as well. With bird photography, he started making trips to the north in May too.

”After several photography trips to the north, Utsjoki proved to be the best place for me to see and capture the Northern Lights. I got to know the locals on my trips and made friends here. Some of them are still my best friends!”

Photo by Rayann Elzein

”Utsjoki was just the right place for me during the covid-19.”

Photo by Sonja Sistonen

Rayann was on a photography trip in Utsjoki when the coronavirus pandemic started in early 2020. Before the pandemic, he had a dream of possibly living in northern Lapland someday. When the travel restrictions started, Rayann was forced to stay in Utsjoki for a while. Eventually, he decided to stay in the town until the end of the year.

”I believe that Utsjoki was just the right place to spend the lockdown during the pandemic and to work remotely. I was much more relaxed and worked more efficiently compared to spending that time in Southern Europe,” Rayann reflects.

When Rayann was asked to plan his return to work, he began to think about staying. Thanks to the pandemic, he made a big life change.

”I put my apartment in the Netherlands up for sale, quit my job at the Dutch company, and stayed in Utsjoki. It was a big decision to leave a permanent job with a monthly salary and move to a country where you don’t speak the language,” Rayann says.

”But I wouldn’t have stayed here if I hadn’t known people here beforehand. I had already made friends with the locals and always received help from people here when I needed it. I have the best support network in the world here in Utsjoki! And even though I didn’t speak Finnish, many people speak English here, and that’s enough to get by.”

The enterprising person is now offering consultancy, photography, and guide services in the north

Rayann lives twenty kilometers from Utsjoki towards Karigasniemi. Because there is less light pollution outside the villages, the location offers good opportunities for photographing the Northern Lights. However, photography alone does not provide enough income for Rayann in Utsjoki.

”My current life in Utsjoki has required a lot of work and effort. Nothing has happened on its own. I have started a company through which I offer my consultancy, photography, and guide services. The consultancy services relate to my education as a civil engineer, and I offer photography and guide services not only locally but also further north.”

Photo by Rayann Elzein

Although combining different jobs is sometimes challenging, Rayann enjoys the variety of his work.

”I do two types of guide work: Northern Lights trips and other nature trips, such as hiking and snowshoeing. I also work as a guide on ships traveling in the Arctic Ocean. On some guide trips in winter, the ship leaves from Tromsø, we are on the ship for a week, and we spot whales and Northern Lights. In summer, we also spot polar bears, among other things. I also offer photography workshops in cooperation with Aurora Holidays.”

Language challenges have been overcome with the help of friends found in Utsjoki

Finnish language has caused some challenges in settling in Finland and Utsjoki. Although almost everyone speaks English, there have been times when paperwork has had to be filled out in Finnish when dealing with company matters. In those cases, Rayann has asked for and received help from friends. However, his dream is to learn Finnish or Sami so that he would truly feel part of the community.

Living in Utsjoki has also meant getting used to practical challenges that one might not encounter in a larger town.

”For example, if I, as a photographer, were to lose a memory card, the only option is to order a new one since they can’t be bought locally. Long distances to the doctor in Ivalo or the hospital in Rovaniemi are also a concern.”

”Utsjoki has more and better things to offer than many other destinations.”

Despite some of the challenges, Rayann believes that life in Utsjoki is easier, more relaxed, more pleasant and more unhurried than anywhere else.

”The best thing about Utsjoki is a balanced lifestyle. There’s time for many things. For instance, commuting to work doesn’t take two hours a day like in a big city. The time saved can be used to do fun things.”

”I’ve also met very friendly and open people in Utsjoki. If you need help with something, even from someone you don’t know well, it’s easy to ask, and you always get help,” Rayann says.

Photo by Rayann Elzein

Rayann also praises Utsjoki’s good internet connection and distinct seasonal changes. However, Utsjoki may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

”I wouldn’t have coped here if I hadn’t already known locals and received their support. I’ve also heard stories of people who come to Utsjoki but get scared of the darkness of polar nights, for example.”

”If you’re considering moving to Utsjoki, you need to know what you’re doing and what you want. You also need to be able to handle basic things, such as shoveling snow. Outdoor enthusiasts do well here. You also need to understand that this isn’t a city where you can get all services in the same day.”

So, does Rayann miss anything that Utsjoki doesn’t have?

”At times, I miss good bread and cheese from France, and fresh food in general. On the other hand, it’s easier to maintain a sustainable lifestyle here, such as eating local reindeer and fish,” Rayann ponders.

Photo by Sonja Sistonen

The following years and the job situation will show what the future holds. Rayann has a dream of settling permanently in Utsjoki and buying a house here. This would require that he could do more of leading photography trips, for example. Through his own work, Rayann is trying to increase the visibility of Utsjoki. For example, last year he photographed the nature and Northern Lights of Utsjoki for the British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC). He hopes that the stunning auroras on TV will attract people to come to Utsjoki.

”Utsjoki has more and better things to offer many other destinations,” Rayann summarizes and sums up his thoughts on being and living in Utsjoki.

”Life here can be incredible, but don’t expect a romanticized winter wonderland. If you’re ready for an adventure, come here – this could be the greatest adventure in the world!”

What is it like to live in the northest municipality of Finland and the EU? Read about people’s thoughts and experiences! ”Living in Utsjoki” is a series of articles published since January 2023 by the municipality of Utsjoki. Here you can find all the previous articles!